Does Gumout with PEA Improve your Truck's Miles Per Gallon with DE Nichols

I've tried a lot of fuel additives to improve my miles per gallon. They usually don't do much, and the one time a fuel system cleaner made a huge difference for me in 1998, the results were kind of terrifying. Maybe that's why they're subtle and gentle? They're avoiding lawsuits?

Scotty Kilmer did a big push on Gumout with PEA years ago and as soon as the ad campaign started I couldn't find one Gumout product that was on the shelf which was available with PEA. Either he sold it out, or Gumout made an advertisement push, then dropped the only chemical proven by scientific journals to actually clean up engines. At least according to Engineering Explained, PEA or polyetheramine is the only chemical which has peer reviewed journals proving that PEA can do for an engine. I think most of us know and can agree that Engineering Explained is a reliable part of this community and a solid source of information.

Well, Gumout in the last few years has had PEA back and when an AutoZoner pointed out what was on sale, I figured why not. I'll make a YouTube video and it's good to run a cleaner as a part of maintenance every once and a while.

And thus this video was born. I really didn't get a MPG boost during the test but you could say that since TCW3 gives me approximately 2 more miles per gallon, not losing 2 miles per gallon by skipping it may have meant that Gumout's Regane actually worked.

My truck's miles per gallon is steadier than you can expect. It's amazingly consistent. My larger tires cost me a couple MPG's, but really, with every turn I'm going farther so my engine is just going less miles per the actual distance. I truly suspect that my gas mileage has remained unchanged. When I first got the truck I did a few modifications, which helped it's gas mileage and it's been the same ever since. I'm happy to say that this winter didn't knock my miles per gallon down 2 points like it normally does so I do suppose I do have some deviation.

Note: Scotty Kilmer did his test on the Gumout Complete Fuel System Cleaner. It must have been a product that Gumout immediately ran out of or changed their labeling to stay fresh on the shelf. I've noticed they switch up what they lookout and their products contents sometimes twice in 6 months. The Regane has been more consistent so this review may have a bit more longevity against what's currently available on the shelf.


Safety message:
Due to factors beyond the control of DE Nichols/AutoBravado, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not DE Nichols/AutoBravado.

Gumout Works? It didn't seem to work before.

My last video about Gumout Regane with PEA made it look like it had no effect, but there are a lot of variables which weren't considered. Still, if you want to know the history behind this article better watch this:

I think Gumout's Regane Complete Fuel System Cleaner did restore gas mileage which I used to enjoy years ago. Disagree? Be sure to let me know in the comments below. I love to here your comments. A lot of what I was thinking about shooting but I apparently hadn't for the last video came out of you guys as well. Seems like we've got a lot of similar thinking, which suggests to me that we're all wrong about the results or we're all right about understanding the results together.

I wouldn't use Gumout Regane with PEA or polyetheramine on a brand new car. While peer reviewed journals have proven that PEA does clean engines, also evident in those engine tear downs and measuring of where carbon was that PEA DIRTIES perfectly clean engines. It'll help maintain and clean an engine with a little bit of gunk in it, but if the engine is perfectly clean it'll dirty it a little to start! I know it sounds bizarre, but it's true.

So this is part 2 of "Does Gumout Regane with PEA improve MPG's". Part 1's link is above. I think that it did help with the gas mileage. The miles per gallon was maintained despite letting go of the use of TCW-3. If I run nothing, my Nissan Frontier automatically goes down to 14 miles per gallon, but I've maintained 16 miles per gallon with first Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant for a couple years. This was back before I ran the TCW-3 for the last 2 years to maintain the 16 miles per gallon.

I know in the last couple of tanks of gas, I "contaminated" the results a bit with lining up my front left tire a little, but it wasn't until then that my gas mileage starting going more above 17 miles per gallon.

Again, with just normal low octane gas, I get 14 miles per gallon. I had thought that I had not gained any gas mileage with the Regane, but I maintained 2 more miles per gallon with the Regane, so therefore it can maintain an improvement. In addition to that, the truck's miles per gallon did go up after the first tank.

See the associated video with this article:


Safety message:
Due to factors beyond the control of DE Nichols/AutoBravado, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not DE Nichols/AutoBravado.

What are the Long Term Effects of Gumout on your Miles Per Gallon?

Long term Gumout ongoing effects

What does Gumout do after the initial tank of gas?

My last video about Gumout Regane with PEA made it look like it had no effect, but there are a lot of variables which weren't considered. Still, if you want to know the history behind this article better watch this:



I think Gumout's Regane Complete Fuel System Cleaner did restore gas mileage which I used to enjoy years ago. Disagree? Be sure to let me know in the comments below. I love to here you guys's comments (and gals). A lot of what I was thinking about shooting but I apparently hadn't for the last video came out of you guys as well. Seems like we've got a lot of similar thinking, which suggests to me that we're all wrong about the results or we're all right about understanding the results together.

I wouldn't use Gumout Regane with PEA or polyetharmine on a brand new car. While peer reviewed journals have proven that PEA does clean engines, also evident in those engine teardowns and measuring of where was that PEA DIRTIES perfectly clean engines. It'll help maintain and clean an engine with a little bit of gunk in it, but if the engine is perfectly clean it'll dirty it a little to start! I know it sounds bizarre, but it's true.

So this is part 2 of "Does Gumout Regane with PEA improve MPG's". Part 1's link is above. I think that it did help with the gas mileage. The miles per gallon were maintained despite letting go of the use of TCW-3. If I run nothing, I automatically go down to 14 miles per gallon, but I've maintained 16 miles per gallon with first Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant for a couple years. This was back before I ran the TCW-3 for the last 2 years to maintain the 16 miles per gallon.

I know in the last couple of tanks of gas, I "contaminated" the results a bit with lining up my front left tire a litte, but it wasn't until then that my gas mileage starting going more above 17 miles per gallon.

Again, with just normal low octane gas, I get 14 miles per gallon. I had thought that I had not gained any gas mileage with the Regane, but I maintained 2 more miles per gallon with the Regane, so therefore it can maintain an improvement. In addition to that, the mpg's did go up after the first tank.

"Cold Air Intake" Vs. Short Ram Intake (SRI) Part 2

As you can see from first part of my series Short Ram vs Stock Cold Air Intake Part 1 I have successfully installed my Short Ram Intake.

I am doing experiments to investigate 3 things. How has this effected my truck's miles per gallon? The truck's miles per gallon sometimes increased by 2 miles per gallon, but 1 is more accurate to say as an average. What effect does it have on Horse Power at the wheels or wHP? Are the changes different in the city than on the freeway?

I installed this with the hope that the Shot Ram Intake or would increase my truck's miles per gallon. In the city, in the winter, I am now getting better miles per gallon for my truck, then when I was driving on the freeway before. That sounds completely counter-intuitive, right? Let me explain.

The first gas tank I ran my Torque App's miles per gallon versus hand calculated where you take how many miles you've driven since your last full tank of gas divided by how many gallons of gas it takes to fill up you gasoline tank all the way again. I used the same 87 octane from the same Shell gas station and same gas pump every time. I stopped filling up at one click for some tanks, but I had to switch to 3 as my gasoline tank' vent sometimes prevents a full fill up by as much as 6 gallons. I also use 2 oz. of TCW-3 oils per 5 gallons. I consistently did this prior to the one variable change of the intake as well so continuing this is a control to increase accuracy of the experiment. I'll have to address with a later article how TCW-3 oils have improved my truck's miles per gallon. It's similar to how Lucas Upper Cylinder lubricant helped me, as indicated by this link to a very popular video I made about it.

Prior to the Short Ram Air Intake, the truck got 14.3 miles per gallon with very little driving other than my commute to and from work. As traffic is usually the same and the way I went there was always the same, this helps reduce variable changes. Afterwards, the truck got 15.9 miles per gallon for the total commute. I got as high as 16.3 miles per gallon, but that was commutes when from the teens and 20's in degrees F to as high as 55 degrees F. My truck did get better miles per gallon as it gets warmer, and in fact the Short Ram air intake didn't actually improve for warmer weather gas mileage. It just matched it.

Please save this web page to your browsers favorites. I've only been running the Short Ram Air Intake for a couple of weeks. It's been cold and it's been like spring or fall instead of winter as well all in a short time. If I can get some more consistent weather, my truck's miles per gallon pay vary.

Now on to wHP or HP as measured at the wheels. I am using the Torque Pro App to follow OBD II data and test for how much power I have on a graph on Wide Open Throttle or WOT runs. I'm just working within the speed limit on the same on ramp onto the freeway. So far it appears that how much wHP wildly changes, but when you compare it up to the temperature at the intake air temperature sensor, or IAT for short, the colder the air the more wHP. The warmer? Less. Both intakes produce the same power. The weather determines wHP.

So far, all the Short Ram Intake has done is reduce my wHP like it's a warmer day when it isn't. On the freeway it is in fact running only a degree C or 2 hotter. In fact, it seems that on the freeway my miles per gallon has decreased. This tells me that as it's sucking air on the freeway behind the headlight it's getting colder air than what's available to the stock, fake cold air intake. What's nice however, is that the city miles per gallon has increased tremendously. This is when my IAT is showing much higher temperatures than I normally would in winter or unseasonably fall or spring like weather.

Source: Why a Short Ram Intake? The reason will surprise you. by DENichols

Short Ram vs Stock Cold air Intake (CAI) Part 1

On my Generation 1 V6 2004 Nissan Frontier 3.3 L XE...we have a *stock cold air intake. It's winter now and like a lot of us, I have watched the MPG's go down 2-3 points. (*see below for 2 week update!)

Stock "Cold Air Intake" commonly known as an air box.

The filter is high and far away from the IAT stock location.

When driving slow the IAT will sometimes see much warmer 

temperatures than what the pod filter is seeing. I believe it's 
actually drawing a lot of cold air from behind the head light.

I was thinking a hot air intake or short ram intake might work to boost MPG's I am interested to find out if there are other performance changes, good, bad, or none. The next picture I show you above of the stock cold air intake with the conical filter really doesn't work as there's no where for one of the tiny tubes behind the air box to connect to anything, but it had a valuable lesson while I had the shiny tube missing.

The MAF air flow sensor is hooked up nicely, but this leaves the IAT or intake air temperature sensor floating away (above) the cone filter and it's not actually in the air pipe, which the filter is drawing air from like on stock. When you're driving slow the fuel trims spiked all over the place rich sometimes. When on the move the IAT is accurate enough.

Once I located the missing pipe and installed it completely, the conical filter is actually touching the wire side of the IAT, which I think is important to do as now the fuel trims are stable even when driving slowly (less air coming in when you're not moving but at least the air is being drawn next to he IAT now so fuel calculations are much more accurate). (needed to replace the factory zip-tie holding the MAF sensor wires away from the pulleys)

2 weeks later update:

The next series of photos will show you that the stock cold air intake that we Nissan Frontier owners believed we had was just a trick of the manufacturers. You see the pipe that has the red rag in it below? I was trying to block the cold air source, but it turns out it supplies no cold air. If you look at the next to pictures, you can just make out below the short ram intake filter, you can just see the picture of pipes which are in the engine bay. They are the actual source of air for the pipes that "go into the fender well". I see this all the time on car after car. No manufacturer wants to have a real cold air intake. They'll make it look like there is one, just to design in some feature that makes the apparent design a lie. I'm sure it helps emissions and lowers power however, as colder air does mean more power if your fuel pump and injectors can keep up.

Notice the red? It was my attempt to raise the temperature for the intake, but it turns out no air comes from there! See below!

At the bottom right corner is the pipe shown in more detail next.

The IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor is on this pipe, which goes into the fender well and back into the engine bay via the original air box.

Source: Get Rid of your Short Ram Intake! by DENichols

New fuel pump and a fuel sending unit, The Lean or Tip Truck Bed Method

It is KILLING me that a new fuel sending unit has improved my gas mileage so much. I haven't seen 19 MPG on the freeway all year. It was even windy. before when it was windy, I only got 14-15 MPG unless I drove like 55 MPH to get up to 16 to 17 miles per gallon (always good for gas mileage on at least my 2004 Nissan Frontier).

Let me explain. The fuel sending unit on this truck also has a fuel temperature sensor. Without this information, the truck had the following DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes):
Codes that apply to this issue:
P0183: Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input (fuel temperature sensor was missing as it was damaged while installing the new fuel pump last year)
P0463: Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Input
P0328: Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor) (similar effect, poorer gas mileage because the truck may run less timing advance or spark advanced as this model of truck doesn't have valve timing)

The shocking add-ons to my DTC's recently that'd cost me approximately $620 is devastating. I need an engine for my Chevy Prizm (see Did I Hydrolock My Engine?), not catalytic converters for my Nissan Frontier!
P0420 Catalytic converter inefficiency code for bank 1
P0430 Catalytic converter inefficiency code for bank 2
Check out my diagnosis and understanding article on this topic:
P0420/P0430 Catalytic converter below efficiency 

Personal story of almost killing myself a year ago:
(BE SAFE!)
I got stuck under my truck once when I tried adjusting how the truck bed was lifted up by myself. I didn't have the strength to get out from under the bed, but I had to use strength continually to keep from getting crushed as well.

As I kept trying to get leverage to get an old fence post back up and under it I let myself get crushed for a few seconds, feeling my life risking, slipping away, I exploded, using the nearly planned on fear to get the truck bed up and get that board back underneath it!

Don't let the apparent ease in the video of the leaning truck bed tilt bed method fool you. It, like any other raising of a vehicle is DANGEROUS.

This is the truck bed's, tilt or lean method for getting to fuel pumps part 1, and surprisingly, more importantly for my truck's miles per gallon, the fuel temperature sensor.

Spoiler alert for part 2!
With this fault gone, the truck is willing the create LTFT, or long term fuel trims. This is a permanent fuel adjustment for more or less fuel to get the O2 sensor behaving right, which is how much it's adjusted versus what the truck thought it needed to satisfy the O2 sensors, but then it needed to adjust a bit.

As vehicles age or break down, these LTFT's can change a lot and seeing their patterns, they can help find a diagnostic direction.

 STFT, or short term fuel trims, are adjustments that are changes on top of the LTFT. They can be additive or take away whatever change the LTFT commanded. STFT are exactly as they sound, they're temporary adjustments, when a certain level of them is needed enough times, LTFT's come in to set a baseline so that STFT can do it's job, which is to make the O2 sensors switch across lean and reach, which helps the catalytic converters last the longest possible, keeping the engine in a range that is safer for all of us. It's our world. Let's take care of it.

Something I've learned since the part 2 video is that my Nissan Frontier has flipped it's roles on it's miles per gallon to something for normal. I was getting freeway MPG in the city and city MPG on the freeway and they've flopped back.

So it'll save me more on trips and less the rest of the time. Oh well, my longer trips cover far more miles than my little city uses in gas.

by AutoBravado

Ethanol in Gasoline and your Truck's Miles Per Gallon

Jesse Crandle and I were talking about fuel treatments on ChrisFix's latest video about whether a "...fuel additive can bring you better economy" treatment and whether it improved, and I felt we had such good material that I decided it should become an article.

Jesse said, "On that note... I'd be VERY interested to see a 0% ethanol gas vs 10% ethanol gas comparison. Ethanol is, in my opinion, the root of all vehicular evil. Gas with ethanol "goes bad" largely because ethanol attracts water, so it literally puts water in your fuel just from humidity. Horrible horrible stuff, plus it eats the older seals in systems. I've thought about doing an E85 conversion just to be sure my system is up to par for handling the ethanol they put in gas."

I ended up responding like this:

"Alright. I was on a major across the country road trip. Only met one traveler that traveled two more states than me since on one side of the trip I was two states into the country...in Tennessee there was a gas station off the beaten trail with my choice of gasoline.

I tried their ethanol free gasoline. Most areas had 15% ethanol and they had cut it out. Directly proportional to the extra fuel that was gasoline, was how much further that tank went!

My knock sensor is bad and couldn't know to retard the timing since the fuel burned too much easier. Without my knock sensor being bad I'd probably never have noticed the difference. That part was scary, but the fact is, by my math ethanol does nothing to move my car forward and is filler like they add to modern dog food.

Just makes dogs poop more."

LOL. I'm so used to talking about my car's miles per gallon, but in this case I was driving my 2004 Nissan Frontier 4x4 truck.

Within seconds, the fuel had mixed enough to make a slight pinging or knocking in my engine. I had just left the gas station. I immediately came back to the gas station panicked. What was I to do? Well, since my knock sensor had failed where I lived in higher elevation just before my trip (too late to even order the part), I figured, “Well, it doesn't even set a check engine light. I only found the code since I have the habit of checking. It'll be okay.” But as I drove below 3,300 feet of altitude into areas that were as little as 2,300 feet I picked up on a bit of pinging under the hood. I switched to higher octane and it almost went away (the little left turned out to be one loose spark plug wire). Yeah, I know, there's a lot of research against the use of acetone, but I've used it in small quantities in bigger engines before to only find it of use.

I had a long argument about it once with a "gentleman" on YouTube and I learned from him that acetone actually is more difficult to burn. So, I doubled up on my acetone treatment (normally 2-4 ounces of acetone per 10 gallons) drove hard forward and backwards to mix it a few times and off I went. The pinging settled down as low as if I had had a higher octane fuel. Before you try acetone, try reading my article about Acetone in Gasoline and the failures it can cause are found everywhere. I mostly just discuss how it affected my car's miles per gallon, but you don't have to to take my word for how it messes up rubber hoses faster, how it retains water, how it...wait, that sounds just like ethanol!

by AutoBravado

New Distributor Cap for a 2004 Nissan Frontier 3.3 V6

As a matter of course in maintenance, we should replace, distributor caps and rotors, spark plugs, and spark plug wires right? In this article, we'll discuss this and the effect it had on my Nissan Frontier's timing advance.

Distributor Cap

Taking a look at my old distributor cap, the contacts were worn. Instead of them facing flat to the rotor, they had worn away and become angled. This is a good sign that I was correct  to replace the distributor cap. I normally would replace the distributor rotor at the same time, but I'm still waiting for it to arrive. Summit Racing's website has good prices and 1 product I've ordered there came quickly out of a few, but other parts were projected to not arrive for over a month, so I bought it at
AutopartsWarehouse. Cost more, but I couldn't wait when I could hear my engine missing.

Spark plug wires. 

Normally, on a vehicle of this age, spark plug wires probably should have been replaced a few times, but the stock spark plug wires have endured incredibly well. Checking the ohms of resistance, they're still better quality than spark plug wires available new on the shelf (at aftermarket parts stores).

I have put new platinum spark plugs, as per recommended by Nissan in the 2004 owners manual. I've run them through about a year of driving and while they have needed some regapping to be running just right, they still don't look worn...good for the spark plug and the condition of my engine, bad as I don't want to waste them and I've been dying to try out some iridium spark plugs for months, lol (They're on my shelf just waiting for me! They were on sale, that almost never happens.).

Timing Advance.

Timing advance has a modern technique to it in current designs. Cars adjust their timing advance continually based on load and RPM. Generally the faster the engine is spinning, the more timing advance you need. Meaning, the spark will be initiated before top dead center or BTDC. The flame front takes time to fully combust the fuel, so at higher RPM more timing advance was needed.

I observed through my torque app that timing advance went up to 28 degrees when I let off the gas completely or went into neutral. It'd come down to 10 to 16 degrees of timing advance when under load or acceleration.

I believe the truck was compensating for the worn distributor cap. Now it behaves normally when accelerating by going up instead of being decreased. I believe the additional gap from the worn points in the distributor gap was making the flame front be late due to raised resistance. So the PCM has a program to compensate.

Truck Miles per gallon.

Now that this has changed, my truck's miles per gallon when cruising seems to be a lot better. I won't report back until I've used a couple gas tanks of gasoline to be sure versus just the belief of improved miles per gallon that has been estimated by my Torque App.

by AutoBravado

Truck Miles Per Gallon, Cruise Control, and what I've learned lately...

...what have I learned lately?

Well, this is a blog, so if I ever wanted a medium to brain storm this must be it. It's just that continuing to follow my advice in my last article about the truck's miles per gallon has continued to improve my fuel mileage, or has it? You see, it might just be that it's been less windy, so there has been less resistance against moving forward, or it's been warmer, so my engine hasn't needed to warm up as much. It's tough to say.

One definite change that I've made is that I do much more of my accelerating through the gas pedal since my cruise control's acceleration is pretty aggressive. I'd wrongly assumed long ago that that might just be a good rate of acceleration for the truck. I use cruise control constantly just like I used to because a steady rate of speed is great for your fuel mileage most of the time. I'd like to say all the time, but it's just not true. When the hill gradient gets tough, I try to judge when to take it out of cruise control to keep it from jumping into a lower gear, which uses more fuel. You see, if I gently add a little extra gas early to the hill, and put a gentle extra push of gas as I go up the hill I can keep the truck's cruise control from going out of overdrive for a more powerful means of maintaining velocity. Going high on the RPM's is definitely a way to decrease the  truck's miles per gallon. How high depends on the vehicle. Some RPM increases makes acceleration take less gas due to variable RPM/horse power ratios.

The other technique that I've been working on has been horribly misconstrued to the public. They say you should slow down slowly when approaching the light to save gas. This is somewhat true in a general sense, but when you know the logic behind it, it's missing some important detail which will effect your car or your truck's miles per gallon negatively for different speeds depending on design. The lower your RPM's when you are maintaining speed the better the truck miles per gallon, but when accelerating, which if the RPM's are kept too low you actually get worse miles per gallon while maintaining speed or accelerating. For my truck, my maximum speed that I'll stay in gear when slowing down is 30 MPH since that keeps the RPM's at little more than 1000. My car however can achieve that at 40 MPH, so I'll stay in gear longer when slowing down. At speeds higher than this whether I'm coasting or slowing down I go into neutral. There are two concepts behind this: (1) the wheels can help keep the engine running using less fuel through the transmission being engaged so long as the RPM's are low. (2) The next entire paragraph covers it.

When you slow down since just continuing at the same speed is generally better for your truck's miles per gallon. But here's some advice to minimize gas waste: I try to slow down ahead of time so that I'm still moving when the light goes green again. This is easier to do when there is light traffic or you don't mind people rushing around you, but it does save your fuel mileage, so what is your priority? I know that when the traffic is thick enough I don't employ this technique as well because I'm concerned with safety first.

by AutoBravado

Truck Miles Per Gallon

I've found it more challenging to find out how to increase my truck's ability to get a good miles per gallon because I've never been a truck owner until this 2004 Nissan Frontier 4X4, which I've only owned for a few years. It may be more challenging to figure out how to improve its miles per gallon more because I'm learning how to drive it for good fuel mileage. I already know a lot of driving techniques for my cars, but my Nissan was harder to figure out.

You see, normally to get good fuel mileage on the freeway, you just drive slower than everyone else and make yourself a hazard. It is certainly what I learned from Consumer Reports. Don't knock that source of information, their entirely right that many large vehicles do much better at 55 and 65 mph then they do at 65 or 75. My Chevy Prizm for many years got better fuel mileage at 140 KPH - or kilometers per hour for any surprised for me to not talk about it in the usual American way(!) - then it did at the slower 55 and 65 mph that you'd expect. I think that speed was just right for the engine design or some such. I mean, I've learned that to maintain 55 or 65 mph, the only way to get good mileage in the Chevy Prizm is to take it out of overdrive which feels strange because it makes the engine so much louder. The point is, to get good truck miles per gallon reading, the slower I drive the better I'm off. Whether I say slower because of the acceleration or slower because of the speed it all helps. Now, I'm not saying to all of you drive your big vehicles in the city to get good mileage because the stops at all the lights will get you, but maybe when the freeway is going a steady 30 to 45 mph, that my truck gets as much as 3 miles per gallon better! Yeah, traffic jams on freeway have only given my truck better fuel mileage! Isn't that nuts?!? You'd think that all the slowing down and speeding up would cost more, but my Nissan truck just doesn't get good miles per gallon at the higher speeds. Now, I've tried cruising on the freeway at 55 or 65 where the traffic was light to save gas and so far it hasn't worked, but maybe that's because I only drive it a long way on the freeway when I have a lot in it, or a payload that only the Nissan Frontier can move.

Sorry to get off topic, but if any of you were wondering why I was referring to the kilometers per hour (KPH) instead of miles per hour (mph) it's because after I left Europe focusing on going 140 KPH was the only way I could keep myself from driving too fast. It's much harder to maintain a certain KPH than the equivalent MPH because there are so many more KPH numbers on a gauge in the same amount of the gauge movement than MPH. It was the only trick I could think of to stop myself from driving too fast after being allowed to drive faster out of America.

Now, I'm not saying to all of you drive your big vehicles in the city to get good mileage because the stops at all the lights will get you, but maybe when the freeway is going a steady 30 to 45 mph, that my truck gets as much as 3 miles per gallon better (16.6% improvement, which is a nearly magically impossible improvement)!

In conclusion:
Seriously, traffic jams on freeway have only given my truck better fuel mileage! That's totally nuts!! (A generally moving traffic jam, but it did have some light stops too.)

Get more on the Truck or Car Miles Per Gallon from AutoBravado's other website.

by AutoBravado